Saturday, 6 September 2014

Beautiful West Virginia and a Pitt-stop in Pennsylvania

John Denver was right when he said West Virginia was almost heaven.  This state has some beautiful scenery.  Several times the last couple of days I could swear we’re driving the Napier-Taupo road. 

New River Gorge Bridge, Fayetteville
Stopped off at Fayetteville to check out, at the time, the World’s Largest Single Arch Steel Span bridge.  Approximately 876 feet down to the water.  Yeah, it was large but not a bungee jumper in sight.  The walk down to the overlook was pleasant, the walk back up not so much.  Ah well, got to be good for us.

From Fayetteville we made our way to the ghost town of Thurmond.  I
Former railway station now
National Parks Office
don’t think it truly deserves the moniker of ghost town as there are still a handful of residents, the National Park Service has a visitors centre and museum of sorts in the old railway station and Amtrak still stop there.  No matter.  There are 3 of the old commercial buildings still standing along with the coaling station, post office and a handful of private residences.  The town itself was squished between
The three remaining commercial
buildings in Thurmond
a hill and the river.  The train track ran through the main street and the verandah of the hotel reached the track.  There was also a huge steam train maintenance yard and turntable all built in that narrow area.  The town started to die when they converted from steam to diesel.  An interesting bit of history in that one small town.

On our way to the mountains we passed through and interestingly named town of Sam Black Church.  Stopped outside a marker that reported on the trial of a man who was convicted by a ghost, the only known conviction of its type in the world.  Not sure how the official who conducted the original autopsy missed that the woman had been strangled but justice prevailed in the end.

Conviction by ghost
Then it was into the mountains.  Not as high as in Colorado but, oh so beautiful.  Many steep grades and switchbacks galore.  Love driving these kinds of roads.  Not sure the people behind the RV enjoyed it as much but we did pull over whenever possible to let them pass.  We stayed in an RV
We're gonna climb up to the
top of those rocks
park at a farm that felt like it was in the middle of nowhere.  In reality it was just a few miles from the town of Elkins.  Once we had our camp organised we headed into the mountains for a bit of exercise climbing Seneca Rocks.  Was quite knackered by the time we climbed the mile and a half to get to the scenic overlook.  We then did a bit of scrambling over the rocks to get a better view
Lily white faces and big smiles
at the beginning
from the top of the rocks.  They do recommend that you don’t do that last bit without climbing gear.  Hey, we’ve got arms and legs.  It’s okay Mum, we were careful.  Focussed on having a cold beer once we hit the bottom even if it meant we had to drink it surreptitiously from a brown paper bag given there wasn’t meant to be any drinking in public here.

Great views from the top

Rosy red faces and if we're smiling it's only because we're having a beer out of brown paper bags
More scenic driving the next day, same steep grades and switchbacks but this time with the added pleasure of a thunderstorm.  Just lovely.  Stayed at an RV park just outside Pittsburgh.  We were planning to head into Pittsburgh and see a few sights but decided to do some laundry instead.  Truth be told, we got settled and couldn’t be bothered braving rush hour traffic plus we really did need to do some laundry.  Walmart carparks are great but they don’t come equipped with washing machines.

Beautiful Lake Arthur in Moraine State Park

 
Spent a few hours the next day north of Pittsburgh in both Moraine State Park and McConnells Mill State Park.  Did a drive through first on the south side of Lake Arthur (we’d heard a rumour there was a sword in a stone a la King Arthur here but it wasn’t to be) then went for a hike on the Sunken Garden Trail.  It is well named.  A lovely hike, some beautiful flowers but very boggy in places.  Needless to say, our white running shoes became a lovely shade of brown.  McConnells Mill State Park is just up the road from Moraine and boasts a mill, a waterfall and a covered bridge.  More exercise (yay) walking down a lovely old shaded track to the mill and bridge.  Took the obligatory dozens of photos then walked back up the track to the pick up.  Not too onerous but, combined with our earlier hike, enough to make us forget about the waterfall in this park.  My story and I’m sticking to it. 

Covered bridge (yep, another one)

McConnells Mill

Road out of the park - glad we didn't bring the RV
We then headed into Pittsburgh proper where the highlight of our visit was a stop at Randyland.  Randy Gilson is a waiter-cum-artist who adores 
Could be one of our
mottoes for this trip
bright colours.  His yard is like a kaleidoscope – everywhere you turn there is a new image and more colour.  He likes to receive donations of paint but throws away all the dull colours.  Probably a good thing I have polarised lenses on my sunglasses.

Randyland in Pittsburgh

It just screams "come on in"

Another brightly painted wall with a chairway to heaven
Leaving Pittsburgh and this corner of Pennsylvania we headed back into West Virginia where our first stop was the Hare Krishna Temple and Palace of Gold in New Vrindaban. 

Palace of Gold, New Vrindaban

The palace was originally to be built as a workplace for Prabhupada,
One of the many beautiful
stained glass windows

the man who introduced Americans to the Krishna way of life.  He died before the building was complete, however the devotees carried on with the construction and turned it into an elaborate memorial to Prabhupada.  A word of warning if you’re planning a visit – the last 4 miles to the palace is on a narrow, windy road with lots of potholes.  If you’re towing an RV, find somewhere to stash it for a few hours.
 


Outside the Krishna Palace of Gold
We had originally planned to visit another penitentiary – this one the old West Virginia State Penitentiary at Moundsville.  As this was hot on the heels of Ohio State Reformatory (see the last blog) we thought “how could this compare” and decided to pass.  Since we were driving through Moundsville on our way south we decided to do a drive by anyway. 
West Virginia State Penitentiary
2½ hours later we found out how it compared.  Pretty darn well.  Thanks Chuck, you were an awesome guide.

Original entrance - it's also where they used to hang condemned prisoners

The cells are 5' x 7' - Tom here is 6'3" so they're not very high either

Sue protesting her innocence, Jean looking horrified (only because a stranger has her camera)

Monday, 1 September 2014

O-O-O-O-hi-o

One more step and Jean would have
been in the water - it has 98% clarity
so quite deceiving
We’re ready for another cave.  This time we’ve visited Seneca Cavern in Bellevue, Ohio.  A bit different from other caves we’ve visited in that it’s been formed by breakdown where a soft layer of gypsum has dissolved in water over time and the heavier limestone & dolostone eventually collapsed into the void.  There aren’t the formations we’ve seen in other caves but we’ve seen some starting.  One section of the cave has some stalactites and drapery forming.  They may not look impressive now at not even 1cm long but give it a 10,000 years or more.

The water table at the moment is at their 6th level.  Usually the cave is
Sue points out a little outcrop
that has many names
- not one of them is polite
open to Level 7.  At times of drought other levels can be accessed with a 12th level discovered during an extreme drought.  Twice, during extreme flooding, the entire cave system has been underwater.  Yep, we were ready for another cave.


The fountain is real - the
rest is paint
Travelled through the town of Bucyrus on our way to Mansfield.  There is a large mural on one of the walls that has the reputation of being a bird killer.  Apparently it is so realistic they fly into it.  What do you think?

Mansfield is home to the Ohio State Reformatory aka Mansfield
Ohio State Reformatory in
Mansfield
Reformatory aka Shawshank Prison.  The architecture of this place is quite stunning – done in a mixture of styles – Gothic, Romanesque
6 floors of misery - and
there are 2 wings of this
and Queen Anne.  A lot of movies and television programmes are filmed here, the most memorable for me being the Shawshank Redemption.  Throughout the prison are stills and some of the props from the movie.  Will have to watch the movie again I feel, from a different angle. 
Remember this room from the movie Shawshank Redemption?


Jean finds a friend at the
Topiary Garden
From Mansfield we headed south to Columbus.  The RV park we stayed at was east of the city.  Unbelievably quiet.  Often RV parks are situated not too far from the Interstate and other busy roads so to get one without traffic noise was sheer bliss.  We drove in an around Columbus finding some of their offbeat attractions.  One of the more interesting was the Topiary Garden.  It’s laid out in the same way as Georges Seurat’s painting of “A Sunday Afternoon on the Ile de la Grande Jatte”.  Very well done we thought. 
A Sunday Afternoon etc Topiary Garden

We included a stop at the Krema Nut Company where we sampled one of their hot & spicy peanut butter and jelly sandwiches along with a buckeye milkshake.  It was so filling it made do for lunch.  They also sell a large range of nuts and other assorted nut products.  We didn’t leave empty handed. 
No purchases were made from the rear shelf

This one has grown arms
On the outskirts of Columbus at Dublin we found a field of genetically modified corn.  Not so sure about these although I like that they’re already peeled and that none of the silky strands are still attached.  Now, that would take flossing to a new level. 
The Watch House in Dublin
Dublin has quite a bit of outdoor art and we also found the Watch House.  It’s an interesting little building made of copper, brass and stucco and is on top of an earthen mound.  The roof has some interesting cut outs in it.  What does it all mean?  Whatever you want probably.
One of the roof cut outs on the Watch House

Making our way south to Cincinnati we called in at Springfield.  Not a
Hartman's Rock Garden
Simpson in sight so we visited Hartman’s Rock Garden instead.  This was started by Ben Hartman during the Depression when he was laid off from work and carried on by his wife Mary after his death.  Some interesting pieces there but definitely under the folk art category.

Called in at Jungle Jim’s International Market on the outskirts of Cincinnati.  From very small beginnings it’s grown to a huge complex with a large range of products from all over the world.  There’s also a lot of entertainment going on while you shop, from theatrical static displays to an ape singing Elvis.  The original outdoor stall fits in one small corner of the Market.
The English section is guarded by Robin Hood and Little John

Fire Service on standby at the hot sauce stand

Managed to get one of the three
locals sitting out front to smile
(can imagine what the other 2
were thinking about tourists)
Spent a day cruising in and around Cincinnati.  Took a scenic drive down to Rabbit Hash.  Rabbit Hash is one of the last remaining settlements of its type on the banks of Ohio.  Just a handful of buildings make up the “town”, all dating from the 1800’s.  Continuing our scenic drive we ended up at Big Bone Lick State
The lake we walked around at
Big Bone Lick State Park
Park.  Now before your inner 14 year old boys starts grinning, it was named for the large animals
Jean on the round the
lake trail
(bison, stag moose and mastodons) that came to drink from the springs and lick the rocks for salt and other minerals.  Many got bogged down in the swampy springs and died in situ leaving their bones behind for future generations.  History lesson aside, there is a lovely lake there so we went for a hike around it.  Clearly this track isn’t used very often as quite wild and overgrown for a good part of it.  Good fun.
Bog diorama action

Monte Casino Chapel

We then visited the Monte Casino Chapel, a tiny church on the edge of Thomas More Park before heading firstly into Cincinnati itself to see the Beehive house and then to Chateau Laroche, a
Beehive House
Norman-styled castle on the outskirts of Cincinnati.  The Beehive house was built over 10 years out of wood, coloured glass, shell and ceramics.  Love the quirky design.  Chateau Laroche was started in 1929 by
Close up of the roof
and chimney of
the Beehive House
Harry Andrews.  He took a Sunday School class and used to take some of the kids camping.  They called themselves the Knights of the Golden Trail and his reckoning was that knights 
Chateau Laroche in Loveland
needed a castle.  So he built one for the kids.  He was still working on it when he died in 1981 at age 91.  He left the castle to his knights who have set it up as a museum and maintain it on a voluntary basis.

It even comes with a dungeon ...
... complete with prisoner


When we left Cincinnati we headed east towards West Virginia.  Getting there was entertaining (for us).  We started in Ohio, quickly crossed into Indiana, drove a few miles in Kentucky then back to Ohio.  After stopping for lunch in Portsmouth, Ohio
One of the many murals along the half mile-long, 20' high floodwall at Portsmouth
it was back into Kentucky for a few miles before returning to Ohio and finally crossing into West Virginia.  Our first stop in West Virginia was at Lesage where we stopped at Hillbilly Hotdogs for … a hotdog of course.  Parking was a bit of an issue as, being a Saturday, a multitude of motorbike riders were out on their weekend jaunt and they all chose to stop at Hillbilly Hotdogs at the same time we did.  Made for some interesting people watching.
Hillbilly Hotdogs!  Yee Haw!
 
We both signed out names on the bus - that's our RV over yonder