Houston, we had no problems

The day dawned bright and sunny so we headed in the direction of Galveston.  Stopped off at Hitchcock first to pay homage to the first (and probably only) Naval Blimp Base in USA.  It was built during WWII and was partially destroyed in a subsequent hurricane.  The bulk of the building was torn down with just these 4 pillars remaining as it was deemed unnecessary and too expensive to do so.  They are huge.

 

What the blimp base used to look like

 

What we saw

Spent the rest of the day in the Historic District of Galveston.  In 2008 Hurricane Ike caused a lot of damage to the area with many of the old oak trees destroyed.  Several artists have turned the stumps into works of art.  We decided to stroll around the streets checking out the tree sculptures and, as impressive as they were, we were more impressed with the old buildings around us.  We were talking to one of the locals who told us that Galveston has the highest number of old wooden Victorian building than any other US city.  After walking umpteen blocks in this lovely part of town I’m inclined to believe him.

 

Tin Man and Toto - I think the tree across the road frames his oil can hat quite nicely

Jean listens in on a storytelling session

 

Two of the many grand old houses in Galveston

Another local that we were chatting to told us about the Bishop’s Palace – a survivor of the 1900 hurricane.  We didn’t need any further encouragement and once we saw the roof towering over the neighbouring edifices it was a given that we were going to investigate further.  We were a bit footsore after walking 2½ hours but that didn’t daunt us and we spent another hour looking through this architectural delight.  When it was built, a decent house could be erected for $1,000.  Known receipts for the Bishop’s Palace came to $250,000.  The church brought it in the 1920’s for around $38,000.  It is slowly being restored back to original.

Bishop's Palace - many people sought refuge here following the 1900 hurricane - it was one of the few buildings in the surrounding area not destroyed

 

Bishop's Palace interior

Bishop's Palace interior

Got confused at Lake Jackson on the way back to camp, finding ourselves at the junction of This Way and That Way

Took a drive out east to Beaumont and visited the small but informative Edison museum.  Edison applied for 1093 patents and didn’t like to invent anything that he couldn’t make money from.  One thing he didn’t apply for a patent for was a fluoroscope.  That was a gift to people who could use it freely (they are the ones who can make money from it).

The Edison Museum is housed appropriately in an old substation

This replica of his first light bulb was made for the 50th anniversary - we're up to 130 years now with this kind of lighting and still going strong

We had planned on a full day in downtown Houston but, after taking the car in for a service, the rain was coming down so heavily we flagged it and relaxed back in the warm and dry RV.  Sorry Houston, another time.  We did however brave the wind, the rain, the cold and the traffic to meet up with Jean’s former boss Ben at the Karbach Brewery.  We make exceptions for alcohol … and friends.  Thanks too to Macy and Phillip who let us share their heater.  It was great chatting to you.

Enjoying a brew or 4 at the Karbach Brewery

Left Houston and the rain and made our way to Austin.  Tried to drive through the interestingly named town of Dime Box but got turned away 3 miles shy of the town due to flooding.  Continued on to Austin through a town called Hutto.  Hutto has a lot of fibreglass hippos in their town to commemorate one that got away from a circus in the early 1900’s.  Drove past a number of them before touching base with a friend in Austin and coordinating a place to meet up. 

Hutto Hippos

Naturally it was a place that had food and drink.  So lovely to meet up with B again (Jean) and to meet B (Sue) along with her daughter and son-in-law, Charmaine and Jim.  That Karbach beer is good stuff.

Here we all are in my favourite position - drinks in hand and food coming

From Austin it was a long haul to West Texas.  Parts of it was very much like driving through Australia – very flat and very dry.  The key difference being the oil fields – hundreds of pump jacks dotted throughout the landscape.  

They're everywhere

Detoured into the Balmorhea State Park to visit the World’s Largest Swimming Pool.  It’s built around a natural spring which is why there are many small fish in the pool.  It is also a constant 21-22 Celsius (72-74 Fahrenheit) all year round.  Despite the warm(ish) weather we didn’t brave the water – places to go, people to see and all that.  We did go so far as to remove footwear and dangle our feet in the water though and were rewarded (?) by the tiny fish nibbling on our toes.  Apparently there are turtles in the pool as well.  Rest assured, our toes would’ve been well clear if they’d come over to investigate.

Why did we not pack our bathing suits - the water looked so inviting (even with the fish)

Made our way north into Pecos where we met up with another friend, Tammie, and her family.  As in Austin, lovely to meet up again (Jean) and to meet (Sue).  It was lovely to meet your husband, children and grandchildren and thank you again for letting us stay in your yard.  Shame that coyote didn’t hang around – that would have made a good story back home.  Yee haw!

Tammie & Gary

Continued as far west in Texas as we could go, finishing up in El Peso. Took a day trip into the city.  El Paso borders Mexico and the city of Juarez.  The two cities are only divided by the Rio Grande and look like one massive city from the viewpoint we had on Franklin Mountain.  Saw a bit of interesting architecture on our drive through the city.  First up was the University of Texas that has been built in Bhutanese style.  It began back in 1917 and, since then, almost all of the university buildings have been built in this style.  Next we found a restored 1919 gas station and a bit up the road from that was the Sugar House.  It’s a display of religious artwork and locals likened it to columns of sugar hence the name.

El Paso and Juarez - can you see where one country finishes and another country starts?

The very stylish University at El Paso

How cute is this restored 1919 gas station - lucky it's not in use, don't think the RV would fit under

and finally the ornate Sugar House in El Paso

Phew, time to sit back and relax with a glass of wine … or two.

Texan Twosome

I don’t think I’ll ever be able to look at a Tabasco sauce bottle the same.  I now know where New Iberia is.  I now know where Avery Island is.  I now know who the McIlhenny’s were.  I now know that there are lots of flavours out there that aren’t available in New Zealand and Australia although a few of them will be winging their way back with us in a couple of months.  They run a great little tour at the Tabasco factory which culminated at the Country Store where we were treated to so many free samples.  Not only do they have a large range of sauces, they also do Tabasco soda, ice creams, mustards, savoury jellies, dipping sauces and marinades.  To top it off they also have a wicked chilli on the go.  Fantastic place and highly recommended.

They grow 'em big here and we're not even in Texas yet

Where else can you buy a gallon of Tabasco?

Made our way through the city of Lafayette on the way up to Natchez in Mississippi.  Saw this interesting statue made by a couple of firefighters back in the 70’s to honour a fallen comrade.  It has had to be fenced off as many people, men and women both, liked to pose suggestively with him.  Come on Bay View Fire Brigade, you need one of these … but only if I get to choose the guy to model it.

 

Suggestive fireman statue to some - not us though, we know better

Stopped at the Welcome Centre at the start of Henderson Swamp.  It’s more a cross between a visitors centre and a museum with a lot of exhibits showcasing the history of the Atchafalaya area including some animated critters that brought a smile to both our faces.  We then hit the 4 lane highway that went directly across the swamp for many miles with water as our median strip.

 

The animated critters at the Welcome Centre - you have to imagine them moving and talking

Highway across Henderson Swamp

Stayed the night at Natchez then visited Mammy’s Cupboard in the morning.  We were planning just a coffee but had a slight problem with the electrics in the RV.  By the time we diagnosed the problem and got it sorted (all by ourselves which is probably why it took so long) it was almost lunch time and who can resist good old Southern style food.  Not us anyway.   One roast dinner later we were on our way to Port Gibson.   

 

Mammy's face and arms have gone from black to white to mocha

Took some back roads and visited the Windsor Ruins.  This former antebellum mansion was the largest in the state of Mississippi.  It survived the Civil War only to fall to a stray lit cigar in 1890 and burn to the ground.  These columns and a bit of ironwork are all that remain. 

 

The Windsor Ruins

All photos and blueprints were destroyed in the fire - a soldier during the Civil War drew a picture of the mansion from which this image was made

Saw this interesting steeple on one of the many churches in Port Gibson.  Makes a change from a cross I guess.  On the other side of Port Gibson is the Grand Gulf Military Park.  We went there primarily to see a submarine that was used to transport moonshine during Prohibition and found a park full of old buildings complete with some old carriages and an old fire truck. 

 

Going up?

Carriage House has several buggies stored in it along with a couple of hearses and an ambulance wagon from the Civil War

Port Gibson fire truck c1923 - looks like the car from The Beverly Hillbillies

Jean appears quite happy to be in a jail cell

Submarine used to transport moonshine during the Prohibition years

The Mississippi River was directly across the road so we went for a look and found a pole with flood heights over the years recorded on it.  The highest flood level was 57 feet in 2011.  Hard to comprehend flood waters that deep but easy to see now why some people build their houses on such high stilts.

 

Mississippi River flood gauge

Bringing the 2011 level of 57'1 into perspective

Leaving the Port Gibson area we made our way north to visit the Mississippi Petrified Forest at Flora.  We were too late to walk through the forest upon arrival but were welcome to stay overnight in their car park and visit the next morning.  So we did.  We were escorted half way round the walkway by Magnet the cat.  Such a little cutie.  He abandoned us when the bad guy from the Texas Chainsaw Massacre arrived.  Okay, so he was just the groundskeeper with a leaf blower but he was dressed head to toe in camo gear that our imaginations found very dodgy. 

 

Display of luminescent rocks under black light

Sitting on a petrified log with the cat that followed us

They had a large display showing several rocks next to samples of the finished product

We left Mississippi and cut across the north of Louisiana into Texas. As the interstate passed through Shreveport we got a glimpse of this huge mural so hopped off the highway for a better look.  Was well impressed.  14 storeys high, it took over 2 years to create.  All the people and images are local and a brief description of each is on a panel to the side.

 

Once in a Millennium Moon Mural

Our first stop in Texas was Grand Saline.  Grand Saline is sitting on a massive salt pile.  Estimates are that it goes down 22,000 feet – after 100 years they are at 700 feet.  No tours of the mine have been permitted since the 1960’s but at the Salt Palace we got to watch a video (how did they get that jumbo drill down there?) and were given some samples.  Some edible, some not.  Didn’t realise at the time but our container of salt in the RV is from this mine.  Will have to save it now, it’s even more special.

 

The Salt Palace at Grand Saline is made out of salt - this third building has been designed to keep the weather off as much as possible

The old and the new ... just like our very own salt dispenser

Made our way to an RV park just south of Fort Worth.  Got settled in and went exploring.  Saw some buildings made of petrified wood at Decatur – a café, gas station and some cabins then made our way to the town of Grapevine where we discovered the delights of cronuts – a croissant/doughnut combo.  This was a bonus as we were in grapevine to witness a shootout between Nat Barrett & Willy Majors at 6pm on the glockenspiel.  Certainly makes a change from dancing Bavarian characters and the 5 minute show comes complete with dialogue. 

 

Tourist cabins made out of Petrified Wood

It's a shame we can't fill up at this gas station - fuel at these old bowsers was 15c a gallon

We might have to try these again - just to confirm they are all as delicious as this one was

The second cowboy is coming out to do battle

Drove to a town that goes by the name of Waxahachie.  How cool a name is that.  Parked outside a gallery that has a display of sculptures made from toothpicks.  What I found interesting was that the guy who made these sculptures died in the 1990’s and the people who own the gallery loved them so much they have been on permanent display ever since.  Waxahachie is also home to this amazing piece of architecture, a courthouse that dates to 1897.  Many of the columns are decorated with faces.  Local legend has it that the stonemason fell in love with a local lass.  She spurned him and he carved his frustration in stone – each image of poor Mabel supposedly getting uglier and more grotesque.  In actual fact the faces were imported and are of men and women but hey, don’t let the truth get in the way of a good story.

 

Toothpick Ferris Wheel

Apparently this building set a new standard for public buildings in Texas

Some of the many faces decorating the columns

A bit further south of Waxahachie (still love the name) is the Roadside America Museum in Hillsboro.  The owner, Carroll Estes, lives on site and was more than happy to show us around his collection of old Americana and tell us tales of how his museum came to be.  This is despite it being a Sunday and despite the museum being closed and despite Carroll relaxing after just clearing out a private party.  If anyone has an old piece of 40’s or 50’s Americana save it for me and I’ll pass it on to Carroll.  It’s the least we can do in return for his hospitality.

 

This little cutie is at Carroll Estes' Roadside America museum

Flip caps for Coke never took off - they kept getting snagged and opening in transit.  Thank goodness twist tops got invented.

Onwards to Houston, we have a problem.